Day 78 - Vatican Museum - St. Peter's Basilica

Monday, September 17, 2018.

Today we got up early to go to the Vatican Museums. We were going to buy tickets to skip the line but it was sold out (not to mention the online sales add another $5 per ticket) so we just decided to arrive early. As hard as we tried, we didn't get there until 8:45 and there was already a long line so we had to wait for an hour and a half. Gregory took the kids for coffee while I waited in line and we chatted with a German man behind us. When we finally made it in, mamma mia, what a disaster! It was absolutely mobbed, wall to wall people. We decided to start with the Momo stairs in the first gift shop which a lot of people don't know about it but is worthwhile seeing. The staircase is an updated model of the original Bramante double spiral staircase, which is only available to see if you pay a premium over the standard Vatican Museums ticket. Be careful not to exit because then you can not come back!

We then to the court to see the pine cone courtyard, which was another recommendation to avoid crowds. It was only partially successful because about half the crowd was out there. We saw rooms and rooms of classical sculptures. I have to say that it is overwhelming and there are so many that eventually, they stop being so impressive. Thank God for Gregory who had done his research and knew what to see and what to skip. I only read about Michelangelo and mostly about his life. I like to imagine what his life was like and what inspired him to do his masterwork.

The kids were starting to get tired so I told Gregory that we would skip some rooms, but you really can't -- the rooms all lead to the Sistine Chapel and today about 50,000 people were headed that way (no exaggeration). We spend more time in the Rafael rooms which were not overcrowded. In one of the Medici rooms, we found a bench (there are not many) and sneaked some peanuts and water. I wish they had rooms where you could go out, take some fresh air, grab a snack, recharge and go back in! In fact, the Uffizi in Florence has just such an area at the indoor/outdoor cafeteria. The Vatican does not -- you just have to follow the mobs through the route to the Sistine Chapel.

It was Daniel who found a Chagall that got us out of the crowds. He said, "this is like the one Grandpapa has in his house." I guess they do get something! We had stumbled on the 20th century art. After Chagall, we discovered Dali, Botero, and the Mexican muralist painters: Diego Rivera, Clemente Orozco, Ruffino Tamayo. It was so nice and refreshing getting away from the crowds, being able to enjoy some art and breathe!!!

We recharged again and got ready for our mission: the Sistine Chapel. We walked and walked or should I said, we were moved by the crowds until we final it made it to the chapel. Gregory and Daniel found a space on the bench that goes around the wall and they immediately sat down. Sunshine and I walked to the center to admire the ceiling. What a joy to see Sunshine so happy! She cried out, "There it is, God stretching to touch Adam!" Eventually, we sat next to Gregory and Daniel and stayed there for a good amount of time. Daniel was ready to go but the rest of us just stared and admired Michelangelo's work. I was so happy I had read that book about his life written by Otto Mower, Gregory's teacher at Bishops. When we were finally ready to go, we couldn't leave. Mamma mia, santo cielo, it was so crowded it took us over 10 minutes to get to the door. It took us about half an hour to get out of the museum. We took the tour group exit, which tkes you to St. Peter's Basilica (it's the exit marked "Tour Groups Only"). At that point, we were all tired and hungry but we were right there, come on, you just have to have a peek!

Luckily I had packed some fruit and nuts. We had a little snack outside and then we went in. I was surprised to see the Pieta' by Michelangelo. I had forgotten it was there. When I told Sunshine, she ran and sneaked in front all of the people and before I knew it, she was right there, at the very front! Well, she was as close as you are now allowed to get, which is about 30 feet back. The statue is behind a wall of bulletproof glass. Last time I saw it, I was able to almost touch the face of Jesus in Mary's arms.

We walked some more, admire the size and the treasures they have but in the end, when you are tired and hungry, nothing matters but to rest and eat! We went outside, saw the Vatican guards wearing their silly costumes, and Gregory (I think he's the G in GPS) found a local kebab shop. We left the Vatican. We had delicious kebab. After that, we took the bus to the grocery store to buy dinner and breakfast for the next day and then we headed home to recuperate.

After I napped, I sat with Sunshine to help her with her history homework. I honestly don't mind at all. I just wish we had the physical book. Her teacher sent pictures of each page so we had to download them and then try to read the blurry content. I love history and it is very interesting but hard to read and find the answers. I told Sunshine I was only helping her because it is hard to read and because it is hard to do homework with all this moving around; she needs the push and the motivation. After homework, we had dinner then Gregory and I went out on a date. After waiting half an hour for the bus, we went to Trastevere. Gregory's plan was to walk along the river but since there were no signs of life, we skipped the plan and just walk around to find a place to have a drink. We found a nice bar along an unexpected pedestrian alley. We had a good time and then we took the bus at midnight to get home. I have to confess that I was a little worried about it but, the bus did come and on time! We went to bed at 1:00am.