Day 114 - Walking tour of Sarajevo

October 26, 2018

Wednesday, October 24, 2018.

We woke up at 7:30 as usual. The best part is that I don't have to do anything. The kids know what to do and they just go for it. This week is different because Sunshine and I have to walk the dog's first thing in the morning. We get ready, and by ready, I mean I put on layers and layers of clothes to go outside. We walked to the park which looks beautiful, like real autumn yellow, brown and orange. We don't get this in Southern California. We walked them for half an hour and then we come home for breakfast. Today we left the house a little late and took a taxi to the old town because we booked for a free walking tour with BH Spirit Tours. The only reason I mentioned the name of the company is because it was really great!

We met our guide in front of the Catholic cathedral. The guide's name was Enes. He is a Sarajevo native and was very well informed and funny. The kids had a very dynamic and fun history class with him! This is how history should be taught.

It was also very sad and shocking when we stopped to see Sarajevo roses (remnants in the sidewalk where mortars fell) on the sidewalks and streets. He also showed some pictures of the war, which had a strong enough effect on us that we decided we didn't want to go to the Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide.

The tour lasted two hours and when we finished we tipped Enes and went to the baklava restaurant that he had recommended for traditional Turkish baklava (and cappuccino). Afterward, we walked to the old town (Baščaršija -- try saying that 3 times fast! Actually, try saying it at all) to look for a warm hat for Daniel. We found a nice beanie for $6. I looked for one for myself, because my ears have been frozen, it feels like they are going to fall off but then I think that this might be the only week I will wear it and I change my mind. I know Carol, my mother in law, would tell me to just buy whatever for this week to be warm! She gets me!

After the market, we took a taxi because Gregory's foot has been hurting, plus it's so cold outside, and the taxi is only $3! It feels great to come home and have two warming dogs to welcome you! It almost feels like home. I know the kids are going to have a hard time saying goodbye to Mattie and Moose. We had lunch, did homework and laundry, took a nap and watched a movie. Great day!

Meeting point of the free walking tour (BH Spirit City Tours & Excursions). Our guide was very entertaining, well informed and funny.

Sacred Heart is a Catholic cathedral also known as the Sarajevo Cathedral. It was built in 1884 by architect Josip Varcas and Viennese contractor Karl Schwarz. Neogothic style.

Interior of the Cathedral

The Jewish Museum is in an old (1583) synagogue. Jews were welcomed in Sarajevo after being expelled by the Spanish in 1492. They lived in harmony with the Catholics, Orthodox Christians, and Muslims until WWII when almost all were killed by Nazis. Hundreds or thousands were hidden and saved by the local Muslim population.

I need to check this author!

Our guide showed us this interesting point where you can see the Ottoman influence to one side and the Austro-Hungarian influence to the other.

Is there a better way to learn history?

The Gazi Husrev-beg mosque was built in the 16th century.

Mausoleum of Gazi Busrev

Lunar clock tower. It strikes 12 when night falls. They have to adjust it manually about every week!
It works well for people whose holidays begin at nightfall. I made it full size so you can see the real
Arabic numerals.

Muslims are very clean. These public restrooms were constructed in 1530, they still work and they are free! The sign notes that they were destroyed in 1992 (by Serbian bombing) and rebuilt in 2001.

Here is the corner where the Archduke Ferdinand and his wife Sophia were killed by Gavrilo Princip (who was/is considered a hero and freedom fighter by Serbs) which started WWI. Oddly, the first sign commemorating the assassination was stolen by the Nazis and present to Hitler for his birthday. It has never been recovered.

The Latin bridge by the corner where Ferdinand and Sophia were killed.

Pictures of the funeral of Archduke Ferdinand. The monument in the lower photo was removed and is still missing.

Orthodox Christian church

This church was also bombed [ironically] but was rebuilt by the Greeks.

Our guide Enes, explaining that the plaque shows the names of the people who died right there when the Serbs aimed a mortar into a breadline. Among the dead were several Serbs along with Catholics and Muslims.

All sort of names are listed: Jews, Serbs, Bosniaks, and Croats all died when this breadline was bombed. Don't forget.

Sarajevo rose is the name given to the mortar blasts on the streets and sidewalks. They filled some in with red resin to symbolize the blood spilled.

Markale Market is a produce market in the old town. It was purposefully targeted twice during the siege, killing over 100 civilians and wounding hundreds more. The second massacre finally caused NATO to act against the Serbians who had been besieging the city for over 3 years.